Happy Independence Day!

With all that I am hearing of power outages and water shortage, it's difficult to celebrate Ghana as it seems the nation is regressing. Still, I hope that those in Ghana and around the world have found a way of celebrating today, as unfortunately a very hectic work day has stopped me from trying to celebrate. The only thing I managed to do was check out Google Ghana's picture of the day: Happy Independence Day, Ghana!

Anywhere but here

To steal a quote from one of the telecom ads: I miss my blog like Harmattan misses pawpaw! Everyday I think I should be writing, mainly for myself as this is my journal of life. Without it, I have nothing to reflect what I've been up to. So here it is: I spent two (incredibly fabulous) weeks in Ghana over Easter and have been back for the past two weeks. I am deeply slumped in post-holiday-exhaustive-disorder, which I may have made up, but nonetheless feels like a very real illness. I feel constantly tired, a bit down and missing my car! Worst of all, since January, I've had my trip to Ghana to look forward to, nothing could really get me down as I knew come Easter time I'd be hit by the humid air at Kotoka International Airport! And now... there is nothing to look forward to. I am stuck in this Groundhog Day that is life. Wake up, go to work, come home, eat, sleep, wake up, go to work, etc. So for the past few days, I've found myself scouring the cheap flights website, looking for a getaway somewhere relatively cheap in Europe. Nice, Marseille, Barcelona or Pisa, I'm not quite sure where I'll end up, but sometime soon you'll find me there over a weekend or so. Tips are welcome!

African Voices

I am so frustrated. As we speak, CNN is showing African Voices, in an episode that will feature a person near and dear to me, Herman Chinery-Hesse. I don't have CNN at home, but was fairly confident I'd be able to catch it online, so imagine my surprise when it's posted on the website as coming up next week, argh!

On a funny note though, a family friend in Sweden, called my mum in Ghana to tell her to tell us (my brothers and I in Sweden) to watch the program. She assumed my mum wouldn't have access to CNN in Ghana and was just using her as a messenger (extra funny: she's Ghanaian herself)!

So here I am in the advanced West, waiting probably another week to watch this show, whilst "third world" Africans are catching it on their up-to-date cable channels. Well, wherever you are, if you've got the CNN TV-channel, I hope you manage to catch it - African Voices is always inspirational and with H on it, I know it'll be a fantastic episode.

Beautiful Ghana

My friend posted a link on Facebook which I wanted to share. For those of you who love Ghana, those of you who are proud of Ghana, those who'd like to catch a glimpse of Ghana...and those of you who are just tired of seeing starving children surrounded by flies, as the image of Africa.

It's so lovely to see the Ghana I know and love, roads I normally drive on, buildings I pass and even domestic houses I recognise.

Now what I'd really like to see is Nana Kofi present a similar slide show of Ghana, adding his usual artistic genius, and perhaps with a bit more focus on people and foods too? Then again, I guess that's what his blog does for us on a regular basis.

Libraries in Ghana

Em and I head to the library at least once a week, either to the local library or the main city library. Sometimes we read a book, other times there are scheduled children's events, like Mama Africa sharing songs and tales from Africa. For me, the library has been a place to visit on and off since I was a child.

These recent, regular library visits make me think of Ghana. I have never heard of anyone going to the library in Ghana. Actually, I hardly hear of people reading at all! There is a saying that: "if you want to hide something from Ghanaians, put it in a book"

Awful saying, but somewhat true. It seems although our people love learning, reading for the enjoyment of reading is not as popular.

Earlier this year, I took part in a church-organised cleanup of the Tema Library grounds. I didn't even know I had been driving past a library almost everyday, at the end of Hospital road. The grounds were overgrown and the library building looked as though nobody had entered for years. So imagine my surprise when I googled it and found that it is actively running and there was even a relatively new wanted ad, for internet librarians!

Have you been to a library in Ghana?

Today's song: Gläns över sjö och strand by the Real Group.

No fufu on this table

I know at the moment this blog may be Christmas overkill, but when you've spent the last seven years celebrating in Ghana, being offered fufu and light soup for Christmas Day dinner (I don't usually swear, but WTF?) and wiping sweat away from your face when opening presents, every second of a wintery Christmas needs to be celebrated.

Sometimes with a classic:

Water water everywhere...

...and it's not even rainy season!

I may be in Gothenburg, but I'm following the current situation in Ghana as best I can. I'd heard there had been heavy rain, very unusual for this time of year, but I didn't realise how bad it had gotten, until I read that five people had died in flood related events. And the full extent of what 'heavy rain' meant wasn't realised until I saw this picture on Joy's webpage:

However, a few moments later I caught this shot on a Fb friend's page. Don't tell me us Ghanaians don't know how to make the most of a bad situation!

Mobile number portability is here

Today is a very exciting day. Being in London, I guess I should first mention that I know it is the 6 year anniversary of the 7/7 London bombings that took place in 2005 at four different locations (including my own former Tube station, Oval).

That, however, is not what I was thinking of, but rather, that today is the day mobile number portability comes into effect in Ghana! This means one can quit a mobile phone network and sign up to another, yet keep the old phone number.

I know to the outside world this may not sound like much, but let me tell you, you don't know the kind of crap we've had to deal with as mobile phone customers in Ghana. From today, the networks are going to have to get their act together to ensure they keep their customers. I am hoping we'll see some competitiveness in terms of pricing, price plans and improved reception. No longer will we as customers be held hostage to a network because their phone number is what we have on our call cards, websites, etc.

Of course, before getting too excited, this is not a case where one can skip from one network to another at a whim. I have been informed that portability will only be allowed once every six months, but anything is better than nothing.

So now, shall we start taking bets on who might be the big winners or losers of number portability? I don't want to get sued so I'm not even going to hint on who I think will lose, but I will say I am happy to stay with my main mobile phone operator Airtel for now. And no, I was not paid to say that.

Ted Turner & Co unnoticed in Ghana

Did you know that Ted Turner, Gro Harlem Bruntland, Andrew Young and Kofi Annan were (possibly are) just in Ghana? I wouldn't blame you for not knowing, if you're not following to the news too alertly, you will only hear that 'Kofi Annan and some NGOs visit Old Tafo in Kumasi'.

I think Ghana journalism has hit another low point when our major television networks firstly waste a good ten minutes on a phone conversation with a party footsoldier discussing why he believes a certain political figure should run for president, only to then spend just 30-45 seconds on the report of NGOs and Kofi Annan in Kumasi with the camera filming, and missing to acknowledge or even better, interview these world known figures (who knows which other renowned persons may have been there but not in camera view?).

They were in Kumasi as part of the UN Foundation Board of Directors to raise awareness about the immunization against measles, a national programme that will take place between the 3 and 6th of November. I just hope that message about the measles vaccine was clear and got to the general public. After I realised their blunder, I kind of zoned out...and started blogging!

A new local delicacy?

In the past few days two things have had me in disgusted shock. First, a blog post written by the Poet. That is, before the shock released and I laughed til I cried (poor Em was consoling her mummy, not realising I wasn't actually sad).

Yesterday, however, I heard something even more shocking. As I was driving in Ringway Estates with Joy playing in the background, the news reader suddenly mentioned that a man had recently found a g-string in his kenkey!

I don't know, my mind is filled with so many questions, how, why, whaaaaat?! But really and truly, I don't think I want an answer to any of my many queries (was the g-string new or old, clean or...worn, why and how were underwear and food so close to each other that they'd get mixed up, etc, etc), because each question just leads me to shudder more than the last.

I just thank my lucky stars most of my food is prepared at home and kenkey happens to be one of the few Ghanaian dishes I don't eat.

Here we go, go, go Ghana!!!

Already there's a lot of nailbiting and fidgeting going on before the Uruguay-Ghana game this evening. Luckily, Ghana has not only the whole of Africa backing the Black Stars, Anjali Rau just said "Ghana it is", endorsing CNN's support for Ghana. Everyone wants to see an African side win, right?! I've got my flag ready (I swear, it has magic powers, last time Gyan scored just after I hang it up on the wall), the Ghana decorated vuvuzela has been dusted off and I'll be playing this song (another quality Omanye production) for most of the day.

Gooooo Ghana!!!

Save Ghana's textile industry!

A Facebook friend asked us how much of our warderobe is locally produced and linked to this BBC story about the African cotton industry's decline. After thinking about it, I guess my warderobe contains about 15% Ghanaian made clothes, but it is slowly on the increase. My latest project has been finding a good dressmaker (finally!) and having the traditional materials I received for my engagement sewn into beautiful clothes. In addition it is always fun to brighten up the warderobe with items from exciting lines like MAKSI clothing, Renee Q or good old MKOGH.
Two new additions to my warderobe


I love our traditional wear, the textures, colours and the way it drapes our shapes manage to make every woman look her best even on a regular day. So if we're being asked to invest more in our own textiles, count me in! It sounds like one of the most entertaining ways in which we can help Ghanaian industry and support the growing number of talented designers around.

Every girl needs a MAKSI dress!

Just another day in Ghana

When I decided I was moving to Ghana, some 4,5 years ago, my mum, though very happy about my decision, asked me:
Why are you moving to Ghana when you hate heat, loathe and fear insects and get really irritated when people are not punctual?
I couldn't really answer her, but somehow thought, maybe everything else about Ghana will make it worth the cons.

Tuesday, and I'm in a 5 hour meeting, which of course started late because people did not show up on time. I can't put Em in her high chair as some hundreds of ants are feasting on leftover foodcrumbs in there (left the chair out on the porch, oops!).

Towards the end of the meeting I step out to call Vodafone, who still haven't fixed our broadband (oh yes, it is the same problem). After dilly dallying me for a bit and realising I am not going to give in until I get someone over to sort out the problem, the technician says, "Madam, someone can come over...if you don't mind coming to pick them up."
I know, unbelievable. However at that point, it is so darn hot, with sweat running down my face and I am so desperate to get back online that I agree.

Whilst driving to Vodafone, I am reminded of my mum's question. At times it is pretty frustrating living here. Still, as I drive back home chatting happily with the technician in the car, AC and radio on, and reminded of the sweet fresh mango waiting for me at home, I realise my optimistic thought is still the same: despite the heat, the tardiness and the awful insect and geckos, life in Ghana is so sweet, at the end of the day you still manage to go to bed with a smile on your face.

Of course, functioning AC and broadband make the experience that little bit easier!

Ghana going for gold!

I've spent the past ten days complaining about how I'm not feeling any of the fun, football-loving spirit we felt two years ago when Ghana hosted the African Cup of Nations (for those of you not in Africa, the African Nations Cup is on at the moment in Angola). After catching the last few minutes of the Ghana game against Angola, I finally felt some excitement. And today, after our 1-0 win against the green giant, Nigeria, the whole country is excited, there's jubilation in offices, rejoicing in the streets of Accra and even from my sitting room I hear the cars honking all the way down the road.



(Pictures from the Ohene Djan Stadium, Accra, during CAN2008)

On facebook, it's fun to read the comments from both before and after the game of predictions and cocky retaliations by Ghanaians. To think of it, the Nigerians have been ever so quiet since we booted them out of the final...There's nothing like the rivlary between neighbouring countries, and in our case I'm happy to always show big brother Naija that despite them being about 100 million more in population than us, we will continue to beat them when they least expect it. I'll repeat the funny old-school saying that I was taught after our win against Nigeria two years ago:

God is not a Lagosian!

Earthquake scare hits Ghana!

Did you receive this text last night:
"Today's night 12.30 to 3.30 am COSMIC RAYS entering earth from Mars. Switch off ur mobiles today's night. NASA BBC NEWS. Plz pass to all ur friends."

I got it around 21.00 and looked at it a bit confused. What was going to be the effect of cosmic rays passing earth if my phone was on? I thought about it for a while, then thought, well, it doesn't hurt me to turn off my phone so after passing on the message to my mum, I did just that.

It seems I was one of few who acted reasonably. Somehow, this text has spread round the country and turned into an earthquake scare (cosmic rays - earthquake, I don't get it?!), with many people spending last night sleeping outdoors as they were too afraid be indoors when the earthqake would shake Ghana.

I'm guessing today is going to be a loooong day for those who got the wrong message. Instead of getting scared in the wake of the Haiti earthquake, let's do what we can to help:

Google has a good page listing a few ways to donate, click here for more info. For those in Sweden, DN also lists mosts of the charities that are receiving donations for Haiti. There are quite a number of Facebook groups that claim to donate an amount per member, I'm not sure of how true this is, but sticking to my 'it doesn't hurt to join' mantra, I've joined this Swedish one and seen this one. Other than that, do check out this Facebook group and Yele Haiti for more ways to help. Once I hear of any ways that we in Ghana can help locally, I will let you know.

Let's have a happy Monday!

To pierce or not to pierce...?

Over a week of hardly any internet access and so much I've missed to write about! The football! The Ghana@50 inquisition! The Ministry of Foreign Affairs fire! Thankfully Abena has summed up the week quite well. On a personal note I also managed to squeeze in a 2-night sleep in at my mother's in Tema.

Other than that, we (after all, where I go, baby goes) also made it to a funeral last Friday (sans bébé), a wedding last Saturday and another wedding yesterday. These social outings highlighted an irritating unspoken Ghanaian rule:

A baby can only be a girl here if she wears earrings! I had experienced this before, when everybody and anybody would say "what's his name?" or "what a sweet boy!" even though I'd be holding little M in her girly, often pink or purple dresses. But yesterday's experience was almost laughable.

Walking in to the reception of my Law School mate's wedding, another classmate greets me:
"Your baby is so cute, what's the name?"
"It's M".
"Oh, really? I actually have a client, a lady named M, but tell me is it usual to also call boys that?"
"No, she's a girl".
"Oh! I see...But, where are the earrings?!"

And that was just the start of the ridiculous afternoon. Every person who passed or greeted us reacted in the same way. I shouldn't be surprised, I myself don't wear earrings on a day-to-day basis and have received comments about that several times. Older lawyers in court will come up to me and (out of kindness) remind me that I've forgotten to put on earrings today, but I shouldn't worry, the judge will probably not notice that I am naked in the eyes of the court. (Since when are earrings part of a female lawyers court dress code?)

Since M was born, I have considered whether and if so, when to pierce her ears. After a while I settled on doing it around the age of three, and even then, it would be mainly to satisfy Ghanaian society, to make use of the many pretty earrings she has already received as presents and stop her potentially being bullied at school (lol!), as I couldn't care less, whether she goes earringless her whole life or not. But does that mean that I'm going to suffer the next two and a half years hearing these comments? Or the kinder, but equally annoying kind advice on where I can go to have her ears pierced (hospitals, clinics and pharmacies in case you're wondering), in case the problem is that I didnt' know where to find an earpiercer.

I just don't feel comfortable putting tiny earrings in my little girl's ears as she is of the hyper kind, pulls at everything she can hold on too and then puts it all in her mouth (this includes, my own earrings whenever I wear them). Funnily, in Sweden, there wouldn't be a question of her piercing her ears until she might want to do it, probably some time in her teens! What's your take on this strange culture clash?

Kwame Nkrumah: his greatest legacy

I am half Ga, half Akim. My husband is part Ga and part Akuapim. Among my friends and family, one is part Ewe, part Fanti and part Ga, one is part Akuapim and part Ga and another is part Akim and part Ashanti and there’s a whole mixture of Ga, Krobo, Fanti, Akim, Nzema and Hausa. Speaking to other African nationals I realize that this tribal mixing is very unusual outside Ghana.

So what is Nkrumah’s greatest legacy? In my opinion it is breaking our tribal barriers. In his quest for panafricanism, he had to first break tribal barriers before breaking national distinctions. By transferring civil servants to places in the country that they had no tribal link to, e.g. sending an Ashanti to Accra, a Ga to Koforidua and a Fanti to Tamale, tribal interaction was forced on Ghanaians. A young Fanti who’d been stationed in Tamale for four years would sooner or later look for a spouse and marry out of his tribe.

In addition, the system of boarding schools meant that at an early age, pupils would learn not to discriminate along tribal lines, after all a student at one of Ghana’s boarding schools, e.g. Aburi or Mfanstipim would easily find that at least three other tribes were represented in his class. At reaching university age, most pupils would have a close friend or girlfriend/boyfriend of a different tribe and many would have learnt more than a few phrases in a language other than their own tribe’s.

In a time when Ghana stands happily among few of the African countries that has not experienced a civil war, as so many others have in the past and present, we must be eternally grateful to Osagyefo for this legacy.

(Picture from my great-aunt's album. Like Abena, I have so many questions to ask about it, but now I can't stop wondering, is there a picture of Kwame Nkurmah in every family album?)

And although it seems some insist on trying to re-introduce tribalism, I dare say it’ll be hard to start a tribal conflict here. After all, if there’s a war between Gas and Akans, which side do I stand on? My situation is not unique, look around you and you’ll find that most of those around you belong to more than one tribe.

For that, Kwame Nkrumah, we thank you.

Kwame Nkrumah: the celebrations begin

"While the rest of the world has been improving technology, Ghana has been improving the quality of man's humanity to man."
Maya Angelou

A quote by one of my favourite persons, from her time in Kwame Nkrumah's Ghana. Was she right? Partly yes, as I believe Ghana's legacy today is still the kindness and empathy of its people. However the quote may somewhat take away focus from the many, many other achievements of Kwame Nkrumah as we approach what would have been his 100th birthday.

As we flew in to Accra early Friday morning, I saw my wonderful, well-planned Tema and the Accra-Tema motorway beneath me, both products of Nkrumah's work. All over Accra, we are reminded of this great man's succesful struggle for Ghana's freedom and his vision for the future of Ghana.


Unfortunately, much of the good work has been undone and it'll take us a long way to retrace our steps and get back on track. However, Ghana is still considered a trailblazer, leading the way for other African countries and in the week that he would have turned 100, the fact that we acknowledge and appreciate the positive aspects of Nkrumah's regime, is in itself a step in the right direction.

Are you celebrating and if so, how? I for one am trying to find a babysitter so I can make use of these tickets.

What can I say, it's good to be back home.

Tottenham, towels and Twi

Hmmm, the past two days I've made the same mistake and can only come to one conclusion: hungry babies are extremely difficult to bath! Apart from constantly wriggling about, they try to drink the bath water (yuck) and eat their towel.


Our move from Kent into London (well, the outskirts of it) has made me feel like I'm getting closer to Ghana. As a south London gal, I know there are huge Ghanaian communities in Tooting, Streatham, Norbury and most of the Croydon boroughs, but it seems the North is housing even more Ghanaians! Here in Tottenham, a short walk took me past the Golden Stool (restaurant/club/pub) and Yaw's Salon. Wherever I go, if I don't hear Twi being spoken, it's because the people are speaking Ga! And at Tottenham Hale station a ticket attendant actually recognised Virgo and called out one of their party cheers, I tell you, it was strangely surreal!

Either way, it's good to know that if need be, I can most certainly find some abenkwan or kelewele just around the corner.

Ma fe wo paa!

I'm missing home paa. So many things have led to this: travelling further south by leaving Sweden for England, hearing Twi all over the place when out and about in London, but most of all, after a fully Ghanaian day yesterday, I've got Ghana and only Ghana on my mind.

The day was spent parading baby to all the relatives. We started off with lunch at the Baba Foundation in Norbury, a Ghanaian Community Centre. My eyes teared up as I looked out over the wakye, jollof, banku&tilapia, guinea fowl and red red that I hadn't seen in so long. The feast, which also featured a starter of fried yam and kelewele was topped of with Malt. The only thing that made the day even better than that meal was getting confirmation over and over again, both there and at the cousin's house in South Norwood that we later visited, that my daughter is the most beautiful baby in the world (as if I didn't know!)

Today, I realised that Marks & Spencer in Bluewater probably had a 60% Ghanaian customer base as everywhere I turned I could hear twi being spoken. Then, getting home to my dad's place, where traditional highlife was blasted as the scents of kontomire in the making wafted in to the sitting room, my heart began to beat faster and I couldn't help but exclaim:

I MISS GHANA!